Perfumer’s Portrait: Geza Schoen – Chemistry, Smell, and Art

???? So fresh and so clean. The minimal design infects high perfumery, which goes in search of fragrances that taste like… pure nothing.

When you’re as much of a niche perfume rockstar as Geza Schoen, it’s easier to define you by the things you aren’t. Not mainstream. Not traditional. Not predictable. And never, ever boring.

Born in Germany and trained at Haarmann & Riemer (now Symrise), Geza’s iconoclastic disdain for the average and willingness to work with big ideas and cutting-edge synthetic ingredients has placed him at the center of some of the 21st century’s most dynamic fragrances, from cult favorites like Boudicca Wode and Paper Passion, to the breathtaking opulence of the Clive Christian line, to the international sensation that is his bestselling Escentric Molecules brand. Never one to set boundaries, Geza’s passions often find him collaborating with artists across the creative spectrum to create madcap wonders like the Smeller (built with German artist Wolfgang Georgsdorf), a piano-like scent instrument that allows the user to play their own “aromascapes.” Sometimes outrageous, always outspoken, and truly unique, Geza Schoen is living proof that the future of niche perfume is bright.

???? So fresh and so clean. The minimal design infects high perfumery, which goes in search of fragrances that taste like… pure nothing.

Perfumer Geza Schön has the reputation as a rebel in the fragrance world. In 2001, disillusioned with the industry’s increasing commercialization, he resigned from his job at fragrance manufacturers, H & R in Paris and moved to London. There he met designers Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach of Boudicca and worked with them for several years to create their fiercely individual scent; Wode.

It was in London, in 2006, that he launched Escentric Molecules. Often described as the ‘anti-fragrance fragrance brand’. Throughout his career, Schön has collaborated on conceptual projects such as Paper Passion, a fragrance with Steidl, Wallpaper* and Karl Lagerfeld. Geza also worked with artists such as Wolfgang Georgsdorf, for whom he made 64 odors for Smeller, an olfactory organ that spectators can play like a piano to make aromascapes.

Sources: CLOT Magazine, The Perfume Society, XXXXX


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