Gentle Fluidity by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Same Notes, Two Identities

Gentle Fluidity by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Same notes, two identities

Working the ingredient to express its full potential and meeting the challenge of composing two different eaux de parfum with the same notes: juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods and vanilla. The Gentle Fluidity duo was born of the perfumer’s imagination to offer two distinct olfactory silhouettes, for her or for him.

No more feminine or masculine. There is a personality, a sensitivity, a "Gentle Fluidity" between all gender identities.

Once again Francis Kurkdjian disrupts the rules of fragrance creation with a disconcerting composition exercise. With Gentle Fluidity, he unveils two eaux de parfum from two utterly different olfactory worlds (one features a woody, aromatic scent, the other musky, oriental notes), by drawing from the same list of ingredients and going beyond the concept of perfumery for women, men or mixed. When he overdoses some ingredients, he under doses others because fragrances, like all the things that move us, are essentially about balance and expected effects... No more feminine or masculine. There is a personality, a sensitivity, a "Gentle Fluidity" between all gender identities.

You are launching two new fragrances under the same name, Gentle Fluidity. The question of gender is more than topical...

This notion obviously interests me because it questions time, and the way I feel time. I compose perfumes for today and sometimes for tomorrow if they become classics. So, yes, what surrounds me socially interests me. But, largely for commercial reasons, perfume is not connected enough to society today. I regret that it is very complicated to agree with the form of what is new. And especially right now.

What is the genesis of this project?

It all started three years ago when the American press asked me what "gender fluidity" meant to me in perfumery. Spontaneously, I mentioned the cologne, the first non-"ginger" olfactory form, then amber perfumes like Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan, which goes as much to men as to women. It was later that I wondered what was the equivalent, in perfume, of what constitutes essence in the cut of a male garment or a feminine garment. If women allow themselves to get their fragrance boy side, men have trouble assuming the feminine identity of a perfume. With the exception of the Gulf countries where men wear fragrances based on rose or jasmine without complex, Western perfumery has won the whole world and the flower has become THE code of feminine perfume. Most of the women sold today are therefore floral, and the proposal without a major flower remains confidential.

Gold or silver is no longer the prerogative of the woman or the man. So this perception of masculine and feminine is very personal and even cultural. With Gentle Fluidity, I want to go beyond.

So you bring an answer to a lack of proposal that is more on the side of the male perfumery?

Probably. If girls who do not find what they want in the female olfactory cloakroom will see in boys, the opposite does not really exist. With Gentle Fluidity, it's not for me to create unisex perfumes, but to find a fluid formula that goes from one sex to another. Besides, my two novelties are not called " gender " but " gentle ".

How did you translate that?

I worked both my formulas in parallel. I pushed the composition exercise to get a common list of 49 ingredients, with among them the juniper berry - both ultra cold and spicy -, the nutmeg - spicy and dry-wooded - the seed coriander - an intrinsically ambiguous ingredient with its slightly freesia floral note - musky powdery but not animal notes, amber woods - with a very clean and fairly metallic cedar - and a vanilla accord that brings a sweet breath. It is their arrangement and their proportions that make me in an architecture of aromatic-woody for one and oriental-musky for the other.

How do you go from the silver proposal more masculine, to that, golden, more feminine.

Gold or silver is no longer the prerogative of the woman or the man. So this perception of masculine and feminine is very personal and even cultural. With Gentle Fluidity, I want to go beyond. With the same ingredients, I varied the proportion of raw materials from one fragrance to another. In the end, the golden version is an oriental-musky dominated by a musk-vanilla-coriander accord "miélé", while the silver version is an aromatic-woody background dominated by an amber woody note crossed by nutmeg and juniper.

Interview source: Numero

 

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