Perfumer's Portrait: Alessandro Gualtieri - The Nose

đź“· Alessandro Gualtieri is also called the Nose, because he let's his nose guide him through all the world's clutches in the search of the best ingredients for his perfumes..

Alessandro Gualtieri is a fascinating character, a kind of alchemist who draws inspiration from body odors, from the smell of blood, of a butchery, from natural fertilizer, and produces intriguing, disturbing fragrances that don't leave you indifferent at all.

Born in Italy, Alessandro Gualtieri began his career as a student of historic perfumery techniques at a German training institute, an education that was quickly supplemented with lessons from an experienced Italian ex-pat he met in the town’s only bar. After years creating scents for Fendi, Versace, Helmut Lang, and others, and a stint in-house at Diesel, he decided to follow his own vision of bold, transgressive perfumery with the launch of his Amsterdam-based Nasomatto and Orto Parisi lines. Gualtieri’s philosophy contends that our sensory perceptions are the major catalysts behind all human action and decision-making. As a result, he designs his scents to reinforce certain feelings in the wearer: Duro for strength, Black Afgano for bliss, Silver Musk for sexual charisma, and so on. Having tried them all, we certainly have no argument.

Alessandro Gualtieri is also called the Nose, because he let's his nose guide him through all the world's clutches in the search of the best ingredients for his perfumes. After long years spent in perfume industry, he decided to visualize some of his olfactory works. The urge to materialize and put his creations into another frame made him to form different performances, sculptures and installations that hold their shape between the layers of the perfume substance and the volume.

To me, the meaning of my creations is being born through the creating process itself, only then I discover the true idea of my creation. It’s a journey that will start and end in the moment the first bottle in the new perfume series is ready. From that moment the people themselves create the meaning, my creation becomes each person’s journey through life.

From these structures, the scents arise addressing visitors’ most personal and emotive part. Unlike sight and sound, which can be measured quantitatively, odor often exists in a world of metaphor and subjectivity. The sense of smell is the strongest and is directly connected with our subconscious. The Nose thinks and communicates in scents. 

Below watch the trailer of his documentary film The Nose: Searching for Blamage (2013), where Gualtieri wants to create his (then) new perfume Blamage by abandoning all the common rules for designing perfumes. For inspiration he travels around the world, but the farther he goes, the more he seems to disrupt not only his environment but also himself. 


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